Cecile Tremblay is quickly becoming Burgundy’s next super star winemaker. A grand niece of the late Henri Jayer, she comes from a great line of vignerons. Three hectares in the Cote de Nuits were passed down to Cecile through the two branches of her family, Jayer and Mugneret, both of Vosne-Romanee. Tremblay first bottled wines in 2002 and in a very short period of time her small production cuvees became sought after by the best restaurants in Paris.
The domaine’s portfolio is very small, but its holdings are in prime locations. Two wines are bottled from Vosne-Romanee, including an outstanding village cuvee. The primary source for this wine are 45-50 year old vines in the lieu-dit Les Jacquines, but also included is fruit from a tiny parcel (0.23 ha.) of 40 year old vines in the premier cru Les Rouges du Dessus. A more perfumed and powerfully structured wine is made from 75 year old vines in the large premier cru Les Beaux Monts. In Chambolle-Musigny, Cecile owns a half hectare of 50 year old vines in the premier cru Les Feusselottes, from which she crafts a mineral wine packed with dark fruit. 50 year old vines in the grand cru Chapelle-Chambertin (0.40 ha.) produce a big, dense wine, which always retains a touch of finesse. Echezeaux is a large grand cru with many subplots, but Cecile owns 40 year old vines in one of its best sections. Bordering Les Grands Echezeaux, the lieu-dit du Dessus is ideally situated. From 40 year old vines in this excellent plot (0.20 ha.), a fragrant, silky and seductive Echezeaux is made. The cuvee that most clearly displays Cecile’s immense talent, however, is her village bottling from the Morey-Saint-Denis lieu-dit Tres Girard (0.50 ha.). Despite being sourced from a plot with young vines (30 years), this wine shows the intensity and purity of a premier cru.
Cecile seems uncomfortable when her connection to Monsieur Jayer is broached, but her wines are clearly influenced by his methods. Although the terroir of each cuvee is evident, all the wines made by Cecile show a similar stylistic approach. The wines are aromatic, elegant and concentrated. Their textures are rich and seamless. One has the feeling that a true master is at work when tasting these wines. Unfortunately, Cecile Tremblay does not produce many bottles and the American press has already caught on to their brilliance.