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2009

As soon as the critics tasted the 2009 red Burgundies from barrel, the vintage was on the fast track for stardom.  The black fruit flavored wines were sexy and delicious from the start. For the first time since the 2005 vintage, excitement built in the market. After tasting the wines in February of 2010, I also felt very positively about the vintage and told all my customers that 2009 was a must buy. Although I still feel that way today, it is not with the same level of enthusiasm. The once charming personalities of some of the 2009s reds have become brutish with time in the bottle. The tannins, which appeared to be soft out of barrel, have firmed up. High alcohol levels, many in 14 degree range, give the wines powerful textures that can border on being clumsy. That said, 2009 is an excellent vintage in general and an excellent one to grab lesser known appellations. The fruit usually struggles to ripen in areas such as Marsannay, Savigny-les-Beaune, Monthelie, Maranges, and Givry, but that was not case in 2009. These areas produced some wonderful wines. 2009 is also a solid vintage for white wines. In general, the whites are rich and lush, but they lack acidity. The wines are not as flabby as those from 2003, but they certainly lack the complexity of the best 2007s and 2008s.



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