Domaine Bernard Morey is a respected estate based in Chassagne-Montrachet, but one that I had zero experience with. I recently jumped on a unique opportunity and grabbed a 2006 Saint-Aubin, Charmois, 1er Cru from Morey at a great price. One of my retail customers was shipped the wine by mistake and was only charged $10 per bottle. The customer would normally have notified the distributor of the error, but the company in question is notorious for mistreating their Burgundy inventory. The retailer correctly assumed that the company would not realize their mistake and decided to keep the wine. The fact that I bought a bottle at the incorrect cost probably makes me guilty on moral grounds, but I have successfully ignored any remorse. Unlike many 2006s, the wine is not rich and tropical, which is surprising since the vineyard is located on flat terrain. The wine is fresh on the nose and palate, and the flavors are white fruits and flowers. Obviously made by an outstanding winemaker, the wine is well balanced and elegant in the mouth. I would certainly explore more wines from this producer, assuming the price is right.
In a surprise announcement, the BCQC (Bourgogne Classification & Quality Commission) has announced that the lower portion of the Clos de Vougeot will be reclassified as ‘Vougeot village’. Wines produced from vines in this area will no longer be entitled to Grand Cru status. Soil composition was the primary reason behind the change. “The soil in the lower section of the Clos is not of Grand Cru quality,” stated Francois Ane, the head of the classification committee. “It has been clear for many centuries that the area in question is of average quality.” Mr. Ane said that the commission’s decision to designate the area as basic Vougeot is based on the surrounding terroir. “The vineyards on both sides of this area of the Clos have a similar soil type and they are only classified as village. There is no reason why the lower portion of the Clos should be classified any higher. We spent 10 years researching this issue.” Mr. Ane explained that a fault runs through the lower portion of the Clos and it is at this point that terroir changes dramatically. As expected, many of the growers are not happy. “This a catastrophe!” state Jean-Pierre Moine, whose family owns a parcel in the area being reclassified. “The monks built a wall there for a reason, just like they did at Romanee-Conti! Are we going to start questioning the monks!” The change will take affect for the 2012 vintage.